Vintages: A young Italian, nicely balanced

Fifth-generation Italian winemaker Luca Currado was contrite. After the first hour of our conversation during his visit to the United States this month, a few mornings after a tasting that introduced his winery's impressive new releases, the passionate 38-year-old apologized to us in his charming Italian accent: "You wanted to talk with me about wine, and I know I talk too much about food. ..."