Wine honcho gives Italian varieties push

From a poor childhood in Naples, to washing pots in a Manhattan restaurant, to the center of the Italian wine scene, Sergio Esposito has had a great rise.

And the wine importer is only in his 30s.

The owner of Italian Wine Merchants and partner of Italian cultural ambassadors Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich published a book last year, “Passion on the Vine: A Memoir of Food, Wine, and Family, in the Heart of Italy.” (Broadway).

In what is becoming an increasingly common genre — the wine memoir — Mr. Esposito’s book begins with his early life in the housing projects of Naples. His family, marked for an ancestor’s support of Mussolini, was shut out of opportunity. The family didn’t have much money, but never wanted for food. Mr. Esposito, with help from a sharp ghost writer, writes so evocatively about Italian food — whether his mother’s peasant cuisine or the work of a four-star chef — that the words make you hungrier than cookbook glossies.