To know Italian wines, focus on 'Big 10' grape varietals

Italy can pose a challenge to wine lovers who want to move beyond the familiar Chianti, Soave, prosecco and Asti. With 20 regions and some 2,000 wine grape varietals, it's hard to know where to start. Add to this a four-tiered quality control system that doesn't always guarantee quality and unfamiliar names on the labels, and it's enough to make you return to the well-known charms of California wine.